Rainbow Island
In the beginning of this article, I just want to point out that I'm as always having a hard time sharing the depth of all our amazing experiences, and that this simply is the story of one of our days on Rapa Nui. There is so much more information, history and feelings to be added, but one thing must be said about this Island: Nobody on this planet knows the past of these native people for sure and that many facts actually are "theories" - here, more than other places in the world. "Rapa Nui one of the places on Earth with more questions than answers.". But I'm trying my best to share my understanding ;)
The familiar sound of the alarm wakes me up at seven in the morning, which I believe to be six. For some reason my phone is one hour off (-.-) and I realize, how convenient it would be to carry an analogue watch on travels. We were wanting to see the sunrise by Ahu Tongariki (the most famous ceremonial complex of the Rapanui people with 15 Moais (stone statues) lined up in a row) at 7:49 am, but "luckily" it's cloudy and raining - so even though I wouldn't have been to late, not much of a sunrise would have been the reward. In German that's called "luck in the unluck".
After our visit to Atacamian desert, I really enjoy the sound of rain on the hostel/campinghut roof and find some contradictions in the German Wikipedia-article compared to what the anthropological Rapa Nui museum in Hanga Roa claims. Time flies and suddenly it's eight, so we start to head out under a minor sprinkle. Just because, Tom gets a beer brewed on the Island (5000 pesos, 8 USD) for a bottle during a small grocery shopping - even tough the wheel of tourism is turning slowly during these months, mercy shall not be given.
Our first (well, second) stop is the Ahu Vinapu which is located by the end of the airstrip furthest away from the terminal, close by the storage units which we guess are fuel deposits.
In addition to the impressive Moais that where miraculously brought to this area of the Island, the Ahu (ceremonial fundament) itself is a major sight. Much rather the wall of "Vinapu I" which faces the Pacific Ocean only a few meters and a cliff away:
The stones for this Ahu where cut out in a meticulous precision as seen nowhere else on the in a 4000 km radius!
Like at Machu Picchu, it seems impossible to fit even a knife in between the rocks, which presents the origin to several theories that proclaim contact between the South American continent (and especially the Inca-empire around the 13th to 16th century) and the Polynesians of Rapa Nui. It is known that travels eastward in this part of the Pacific are so called "safe travels", since the winds from east would always carry the sailboats of explores "back" to the harbor of origin when supplies went low (and the latitude was maintained). Through this expertise, a comparably microscopic piece of land could be discovered in the midst of vast gyros and might also be the way contact to South America was achieved - however, traveling 3500 km is something else than 2000km from central Polynesia. Nobody is sure... Regardless of how, when and why, this stuns and impresses- and reminds me of a trip more than a month ago...
Further down the road, we drive by the operating quarry again (quite a contrast to Rano Raraku), enjoy the extremes of cliff and ocean while another rainbow apears, and end up by our next stop: the Hanga Te'e. At the small ranger station, we are required to show our ticket to the National Park (since 2017 run by the Ma'u Henua) and Spanish signs remind us of not leaving any trash behind. Apparently the ranger just burns found leftovers on his fires next to the "home-bio-gas"-instalation.
On these ceremonial platforms it's obviuos that the seven and other Moais where toppled systematically during the tribal wars of the 18th century, thus presenting an obvious proof of the righteousness behind oral heritage. Their red "hair/heads" have (been) rolled down to the waterfront, and it's a strange feeling that these monumental statues have been lying here ever since, face down for more than two decades. Or are they symbolically kissing the Earth? Nobody knows for sure.
Furthermore, this sight offers in impression of traditional housing and experimental farming where plants were protected from the wind through dry stone construction:
A bit further down the coast, a sperm whale has just stranded and a government sign mentions potential health risks by entering the stone shore where an old metal oil barrel supposedly has been brought by the Ocean and brings me back from my historical wondering.
Even though our trip all ready feels like a long one and the blowing ocean winds are tiring, we agree to check out the second great hill of the Island: the first volcano to erupt and thereby forming this oasis thousands of years ago: Po Ike. While visiting Ahu Akivi a few days ago, we encountered a tour guide who offered to hike us to the top of the most Eastern point of Rapa Nui for 75 USD, each - so we decide to drive and hike there ourselves. Except of the unpredictable mix-weather of rain and sunshine (and seldom night storms), the island stands out by its friendliness. No dangerous animals or poisenous plants or insects are calling this environment home, so we just go; parking the car and making our way up the hill along a small trail connecting flakes of forests. I cannot help but let the yellow flowers of the invasive Crotalaria Grahamiana (rattlepods) remind me of the rapeseed fields by blue ocean back home.
Spoiler alert: we never reach the top of the crater since it starts to rain, and we seek shelter in a small forest while I think about life, and we disover the happiest wild horses on Earth. On the way down my soul is even lighter and we head back into town while remembering that this must be "Rainbow-Island" in April and May.
The last picture shows an empty sheep pen, which links Rapa Nui to another dark and painful chapter of history. After the Annexion to Chile in 1888, land on the Island had been sold to various people with money, which caused an unhealthyly distorted picture of the situation regarding the natives. A large sheep farm had been established, run by a foreigner, and Rapanui people were not allowed to move outside a fenced area by Hanga Roa. It took up until the 1970's until this changed!
On our drive back, we come by the local "dump" which I've seen in the PBS-documentary (https://www.pbs.org/video/the-plastic-problem-1538773484/) and thus find interesting. It's painful to see that tourism causes this much litter, and my spontaneous visit at the island's new "recycling center" only ameliorates parts of the damage. After a talk with one of the employees, I learn that this neither is a recycling plant nor a long-term solution for the handling of trash from Hanga Roa and the 80,000 tourists each year; here, trash is only collected, sorted, and stored until a buyer is found. Currently only the Chilean government imports, aluminum, cardboard and PET type 1.
Also, we visit the quarry of Red Scoria (Rano Pau), which is the volcanic stone used for the "hair" or "heads" of the Moais. Apparently, there are supposed to be 23 prototypes of statues as well, but the only 400 meter long trail makes us miss their sight - however, with the experience gathered in the Rano Raraku (main quarry of the Moai), we infer that the picture beneath shows the out-carving of a monolithic human figure:
Before returning the car at 7pm, Tom has a "Schnappsidee" to drive up and check out the third and last big volcano crater, which is located in the southwestern corner of the triangular isle: Rano Kau and the sacred village 'Orongo. We arrive at half past five pm which is when the museum at the top of the crater closes its doors. But we get to sneak in for some minutes and add some facts to our previous knowledge from the anthropological museum in town (which we visited Friday). To make it short: During and after the importance of the Moai-ceremonies, the "Birdman"-tradition gained huge influence in a gradual transition on the Island for approximately 400 years - so basically from the 15th through the 19th century.
The different tribes on the Island competed about finding the first egg of the sea bird "Manutara" (lat. Onychoprion fuscatus) that came to nest each September. Because the birds only nested on a cliff/island off the shore, only the bravest and strongest young men where chosen for this "contest" and the tribe which had raised the winner recieved power and benefits during the next year.
'Orongo is the center of this tradition and the spiritual village to where the first egg was brought to after an intense swim and 300 meters of free cliff climbing up to the volcanic crater!
These are the three most common petroglyphes of the Rapa Nui, which have been found all over this area. If picture number 2 is a vulva, I'll bet a bucket of easter candy that picture 3 symbolized something more than a just "mask or a pair of large eyes" :D
Before we turn in the car, a view of the Island's only city presents itself to us.
In town, the worker of the music store on the main street, asks where I'm from, responding in Swedish when I answer: "Soy de Dinamarca." And I get to speak Danish to his wife and children who all live here and have learned Swedish while maintaining the Rapa Nui culture and creating a children's songs cd- what a day!
Denne mandag var fyldt med opdagelsen af Rapa Nuis Ahu Vinapu, hvilken byder på enorm præcision med stenarbejdet og måske danner bevis på forbindelse mellem Inka-riget og stillehavsøen. Dernæst var vi oppe på Po Ike - den østligste vulkan og kørte endeligt over til Rano Kau med kraterens oase og fuglemandskulten omdrejningspunkt. Og sååå meget imellem!
Heute haben wir weitere Teile der Insel entdeckt und vor allem den Ahu Vinapu wertgeschätzt, den Po Ike halbwegs bestiegen, mit dem Auto interessante Punkte wie die Müllsammelstationen entdeckt und letztendlich Hanga Roa vom westlichsten Vulkan Rano Kau sehen können. Und noch so viel mehr!
